Navigation and Unpaved Roads in Death Valley National Park


Navigation and Unpaved Roads in Death Valley National Park
A friend of mine emailed me yesterday and sent pictures of folks on a workshop in Death Valley, asking me if I could identify the canyon they had gotten lost in, while trying to reach The Racetrack. Roughly 2/3 of the roads in the park are unpaved, and their condition can vary from week to week. A number of articles have described what can happen when you venture onto those roads without adequate knowledge or preparation:

Death by GPS in Desert
http://www.ohranger.com/death-valley/news/2011/death-gps-desert

"We expect it every summer," said Callagan. "It's actually more unusual to end up without any deaths. It seems like we have one or two every summer."

The GPS: A Fatally Misleading Travel Companion
http://www.npr.org/2011/07/26/137646147/the-gps-a-fatally-misleading-travel-companion

Experts Warn of 'Death by GPS' as More People Visit Remote Wildernesses
http://www.foxnews.com/scitech/2011/02/04/death-gps-rise/

Don't trust a GPS unit to direct you down a passable road! Here's the National Park Service's take on the subject:


Using GPS Navigation
GPS Navigation to sites to remote locations like Death Valley are notoriously unreliable. Numerous travelers have been directed to the wrong location or even dead-end or closed roads. Travelers should always carry up-to-date road maps to check the accuracy of GPS directions.
DO NOT DEPEND ONLY ON YOUR VEHICLE GPS NAVIGATION SYSTEM.

To explore the park's unpaved roads, the first thing you'll need is a detailed map, but bear in mind that the map is worthless without checking with rangers on current conditions for every road you'll travel. The second thing you'll want is tools and other supplies to get yourself out of the most likely breakdown situations: flat tires, radiator hose leaks, getting your vehicle mired in deep sand, and so on. The National Park Service recommends carrying two full-size spare tires, and they're not over-reacting. I've gotten 2 flat tires at once in Death Valley, and the last ranger I met in the park had encountered four vehicles with flats so far that day, on that one road. That leads to the third precaution: carry survival supplies, enough to enable you to wait with your vehicle for days (the best bet), or to walk out of wherever you've driven, in the weather likely to occur at the time of year you're there (but not in conditions which could risk your life via heat stroke or hypothermia). Fourth, bring a first aid kit, and someone who knows how to use it. Taking CPR and general first aid courses are a good start, but you may be hours from medical care, so someone who has taken an Outdoor Emergency Care course or a full EMT course is the best bet. In the case of a rattlesnake bite for example, those old-fashioned rattlesnake bite kits are worthless or harmful, identifying the species of rattlesnake can be important to selecting the appropriate anti-venom, and knowing where you can arrange for rapid access to medical care may be critical to the outcome.

Although not a requirement, the most useful thing you can bring with you is someone who knows the park well, from years of exploring it. Although cell phones are useless in 99% of the park's terrain, there are small areas of service that may span only 100-200 yards of many of the park's roads, and knowing where these are, and which cellular providers are likely to be picked up in each, can literally save someone's life.

Most park visitors stick to the viewpoints close to the park's paved roads, and most visits to the park are relatively safe and uneventful. Some of the parks most interesting locations however are in more remote areas. With a little advance planning and preparation, these areas can be explored and enjoyed without undue risk.

Comments

  1. Excellent advice. One more thing I take with me, along with several paper maps, is a magnetic compass.

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  2. Paper maps, magnetic compass, GPS and extra batteries, Spot GPS Messenger and extra batteries, a crapload of water and a case of Clif bars... just wish I could afford a sat phone...

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  3. Great info Jeffrey Sullivan :) looks like I need to hit you up to visit these remote areas ;)

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  4. I use a GPS, but I have it connected to a laptop with topo maps tracking my route. Paper versions are always there as well just in case.

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  5. And a nice really sharp sterile blade in case you get trapped and need to hack one of your own limbs off.

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  6. John H. Moore Good advice. Have you had experience with Spot? I have heard their customer service is poor. I have a ham radio license so I take a radio with me however I haven't tested it in Death Valley.

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  7. Gary Goodenough, not a lot of experience so far. It works poorly in Yosemite Valley. Seems to work elsewhere so far. Seems a little hit and miss, so for that reason I wish that I had a satellite phone!

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  8. Another hiking trick is to routinely look behind you (this works in parking lots for finding your car). As you travel, looking back gives you a frame of reference for your return trip. Do this often, especially at turns and forks in the road.

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  9. Jason Ryan -- marking GPS waypoints and maybe even taking photos at turns/forks helps too. When I'm out hiking and not on a very clearly marked trail, I put my GPS in tracking mode and mark periodic waypoints... then I make sure that I'm near the track on the way back!

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  10. Is that Dedekera Canyon up to Steele Pass between Eureka Dunes and Saline Valley?

    I am putting together another DV photowalk for the Solstice in December 2012 with a 4x4 requirement...

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  11. Satellite phone and flare gun. With lots of flares.

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  12. Luc Asbury Yes, it's the approach to Steele Pass from Eureka Dunes. It was frustrating to see a caravan of a dozen Range Rovers lining up to cross over after I turned around. Some looked very stock, with no more clearance than my Explorer, so I asked them if they had been over the pass before. Apparently the Range Rovers have the ability to lift 4" at the press of a button, a critical feature to get over some of the sharper drop-offs. They also had a lot of support vehicles (people, winches, etc)... whatever might be needed to push, pull or lift them over any obstacle along the way.

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  13. My Land Rover has that capability as well, and I have just gotten sensor rods that allow me to gain an additional 2 inches of clearance! I want to try Steele Pass but not alone.

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  14. Luc Asbury How much room does your Land Rover have in the back for sleeping (or is it a smaller model, like the Discovery)? I may have to try something in their product line on for size. What kind of gas mileage do you get? How has the service record been (and how many miles does yours have)? Does the LR have enough horsepower for decent enough passing on mountain roads? I'd sure like to upgrade in 4WD capability, but I have to weigh that against other considerations.

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  15. I love my Land Rover, so my info is biased.

    My 2005 LR3 SE with 114,000 miles is terrific for sleeping in the back (one note bring something to bridge the gap in the seats) Comfortable sleeping for two was my requirement for my 4x4. I can fit at 48" wide bed roll in the back and enjoy the stars thru the skylight.

    The horsepower and suspension is terrific for maneuvers at all speeds. I have topped it out at 127 I regularly get it on three wheels on the freeway on / off ramps. This youtube video had me sold for the on road ability...
    LR3 at the Nürburing

    I have never felt more able and confident on / off road or in the snow / mud in any vehicle as much as my LR3.

    Now for the reality of owning a Land Rover...

    Buy a Used ONE, Do Not Lease or have Payments, because you will have maintenance and fuel payments!

    I get serviced at the dealer, the two local independent Land Rover shops were unreliable, and I hear from my mechanic friends that Land Rovers are a bitch to service. The services cost is quarterly about $1000- $2500, and I have replaces a few significant items:
    front sway arms and shock towers
    air suspension compressor
    back skylight
    front skylight
    tailgate release cable
    Transmission low / high transfer motor

    Gas Mileage Sucks! 10-14 mpg in the city 17-20 highway, I could buy a small econo car for the annual gas costs.

    Despite all of that I sill love my Land Rover!

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  16. Luc Asbury, those service costs are stunning!

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  17. That includes brakes, tires and following the MFG recommended servicing cycles

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  18. God, I'm glad I grew up with a passion for MAPS! (still have many USGS topo maps in folders for much of Calif.)

    Not that is a guarantee of 100% success - I've learned how to comfortably back-up on many a rough road (including the side of one of the Mono Craters), for up to a mile before "room to turn around" was found when the "road" turned to "trail!"

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  19. Regarding DV rainfall stat's...
    I remember reading years ago that many back area rain gauges can go years with no measurements, and the one time they "could" is when the downpour/flashflood washes the monitoring station completely away and becomes either "n/a" or "*" in the logbook.

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  20. The past two years have been well above average for rainfall in DV

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  21. My wife and I both seriously miss the Toyota 4x4 pick-up we bought new in fall 1983. Carpet kit, overloads/lift kit, good shell on back...it was our back country home on wheels. It was high enough and narrow enough to go places (like older back roads around Mono Basin/Eastern Sierra) in 2WD where bigger trucks/etc. couldn't go in 4WD without scratching off their side paint and losing the side mirrors. (my first "car" was was bought used in late 1973 - a 1954 Willys Jeep 4x4 Stationwagon.) That Toyota got us out of many jams with no worrisome effort or complaints on its part: it earned our trust and faith, so long as we didn't try anything stupid.

    These days, I'd only trust a small handful of 4x4 manufacturers - Jeep, Land Rover, Toyota, and maybe Ford - because of the LONG experience they have had building them. (I'm sure Mercedes was running around with 4x4 vehicles in less-than-ideal conditions for the German forces in WWII, but we don't get to hear the stories much.) I think Land Rover still has that larger-than-life reputation: I remember reading amazing stories of LR adventures back in the 1940s, '50s, and '60s in Africa, Central and South America, etc. So many of the "4x4 SUV" things these days are no better than regular cars, just more costly. Too many owners with no experience in inclement conditions think they can trust the technology to save them, regardless of the "what and where" their mess might be...even as simple as running over a pothole in the road, or a metal plate over a repair-in-progress on a freeway or bridge. The manufacturers don't routinely build "common sense" into the driver's seat...they don't require it of whomever sits there, either.

    I guess I'm not surprised the Land Rovers cost an arm and leg to maintain.

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  22. When I posted the "ohranger.com" link on my FB page, a geologist-friend added something into his comment I'd overlooked and taken for granted: "Know the do's and don'ts of orienteering, know how to read a map and compass before you head out."

    Common sense, again, for anyone who enjoys the outdoors and intends to return home without the scary survivalistic stories.

    I guess I appreciate growing up in those days before GPS, laptops, and cell phones, and gained the passion for reading maps and a compass. Unless the darn things catch fire or blow out the window, I have confidence from the pre-trip homework studying and preparedness that things will be OK.

    I was with friends in October 1991 going after a fossil area in Saline Valley. The maps were so stuck in my head from studying them beforehand, that I got us within 100 ft of our destination, by only a half-moon's illumination around 10pm...and I didn't open them until the next morning to double check.

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  23. (from Wiki...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light_Utility_Vehicle - after http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willys_MB)

    In 1948, the British Land Rover was developed. Originally intended to be a civilian and agricultural successor to the Willys Jeep (the prototype Land Rover was built on the chassis of a Willys and used Willys transmission parts but production vehicles used no Jeep components) the Land Rover was brought into military service in 1949, becoming the standard Light Utility Vehicle for the British Army and many armed forces of the Commonwealth. The original Land Rover design evolved into the modern-day Land Rover Defender which is still in military service throughout the world.

    Even Land Rover was born from the Willys Jeep!)

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